Road Trip to a South Korean Catfish Farm

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Road Trip to a South Korean Catfish Farm 1

This is part one. We went on a fish farm tour through Tazy.com. This is a link to an in season tour.   Part 2: Lily is driving the ATV, I am just keeping it on the road ;). This was part of the Cat-fishing farm. For 10,000 Korean Won ($9.50) not to bad. What … Read more

What’s for lunch? Cheesy Ribs!

My brother Tim tagged me in a post on Facebook about restaurants in South Korea lets you dip fried foods in melted cheese. So I told him that I would make a video. I hope Y’all like, it was SO hard to make it all that eating and stuff…

The Korean Cheese Food Trend That Changed How We Think About Ribs

If you have not encountered the Korean cheese dipping trend, you are missing one of the most enthusiastically embraced food experiences to come out of South Korean food culture in recent years. The premise is simple and brilliant: cook ribs, fried chicken, tteokbokki, or virtually any savory dish, and serve it alongside a fondue pot of bubbling, stretchy, molten cheese that you dip each bite into before eating. The result is indulgent, messy, deeply satisfying, and absolutely worth every calorie.

The cheese dipping trend exploded in South Korea around 2014 and 2015, driven largely by social media. The visual appeal of stretchy melted cheese pulling away from a piece of ribs or fried chicken is exactly the kind of content that spreads rapidly online, and Korean food culture has always had a strong relationship with visually stunning, shareable food moments. Cheese dakgalbi, a stir-fried spicy chicken dish finished at the table in a pan ringed with melted mozzarella, became a national sensation. Cheese ribs followed close behind.

For our family, the discovery came through a Facebook tag from Tim. He had seen a video of people at a Korean restaurant dunking fried foods into pots of liquid cheese and immediately thought of us, stationed in Korea and eating our way through whatever the country had to offer. He was right. This was exactly our kind of adventure, and making the video to show him was an absolute joy, even if the hardest part was making ourselves stop eating long enough to keep filming.

What Are Korean Cheesy Ribs?

Korean cheesy ribs are typically pork ribs or beef short ribs prepared using traditional Korean BBQ techniques, then served with a side of melted processed mozzarella or a mozzarella blend for dipping. The ribs themselves may be seasoned with a sweet and savory marinade similar to galbi sauce, grilled or braised until the meat is tender enough to pull easily from the bone, and then presented hot alongside the cheese vessel.

Some restaurants serve the cheese cold in a separate bowl that guests melt themselves over a tabletop burner, creating a theatrical, interactive component that is a big part of the appeal. Others bring the cheese already melted and kept warm over a small flame at the table. Either way, the ritual of dipping each rib or piece of fried food into the molten cheese before eating has become as much a social experience as a culinary one.

The cheese used in most Korean cheese dishes is not an aged cheddar or a pungent blue. It is typically processed mozzarella or a mild, stretchy, low-moisture cheese that melts smoothly and produces the signature pull that makes the photographs so visually compelling. The flavor is mild, creamy, and slightly salty, which provides a rich counterpoint to the bold, spicy, or sweet-savory flavors of the Korean dishes it accompanies.

The Cheese Dakgalbi Capital: Chuncheon

No conversation about cheese in Korean food culture is complete without mentioning Chuncheon, a city about an hour east of Seoul that is considered the birthplace and spiritual home of dakgalbi. Chuncheon dakgalbi has been a beloved dish for decades, and the city has an entire street, Dakgalbi Street, lined with restaurants that serve nothing but variations of this dish.

The cheese version, where a ring of melted mozzarella is added to the center of the cast-iron pan just before finishing, became the dominant way visitors experience dakgalbi in Chuncheon in recent years. The combination of spicy marinated chicken, chewy rice cakes, sweet potato, and cabbage cooked together in a rich gochujang sauce, finished with that melted cheese in the center, is one of the most satisfying meals you can have in Korea.

If you are stationed in Korea or visiting and have not made the trip to Chuncheon for dakgalbi, put it on your list immediately. The train ride from Seoul takes about an hour and the experience of eating on Dakgalbi Street, surrounded by the smoke and sizzle of dozens of restaurants cooking the same dish, is one of the most distinctly Korean food experiences available anywhere in the country.

Other Korean Dishes That Use Cheese

Cheesy ribs are just the beginning. Once Korean food culture embraced cheese as an ingredient, it found its way into an impressive range of dishes that you might not expect to see paired with dairy. Here is a tour through some of the most popular cheese applications in Korean cuisine that are worth seeking out.

Cheese tteokbokki is a variation of the classic spicy rice cake dish where melted cheese is added on top of or around the tteok. The creamy, mild cheese tempers the heat of the gochujang sauce and adds a richness that transforms the dish from a simple street snack into something more substantial and satisfying. This version has become ubiquitous at Korean food courts, market stalls, and casual restaurants.

Cheese ramyeon, or instant noodles with a slice or two of processed cheese melted into the broth, has been a home cooking staple in Korea for years. The cheese adds a creamy, slightly sweet element to the spicy soup base that rounds out the flavor in a surprisingly effective way. This is one of those home combinations that sounds odd until you try it and immediately understand why it works.

Cheese corn, a popular street food and bar snack made from sweet corn mixed with mayonnaise and covered in melted cheese, appears everywhere from convenience stores to food halls. It is served hot in small cups and is one of those foods that is difficult to eat just a little of. The sweetness of the corn against the savory cheese and mayo creates a combination that is deeply addictive.

Cheese buldak, the famous super-spicy fire chicken that became a global sensation through the Buldak instant noodle brand, has a cheese version that tones down the extreme heat with a generous layer of melted mozzarella. If you want to experience buldak but are not confident in your heat tolerance, the cheese version is the way in. The cheese provides real relief from the capsaicin and makes the dish accessible to a much wider audience.

Making Korean Cheesy Ribs at Home

You do not need to be in South Korea to enjoy this dish. With a few ingredients and some basic Korean pantry staples, you can recreate a version of cheesy ribs at home that captures the spirit of what we experienced over there. Here is a straightforward approach that works well for a family dinner.

For the ribs, start with pork spare ribs or baby back ribs. A simple galbi-inspired marinade works beautifully: combine soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil, minced garlic, grated Asian pear or apple for tenderizing, and a small amount of gochujang if you want a touch of heat. Marinate the ribs for at least four hours or overnight. Grill over medium-high heat or bake in the oven at 325 degrees for two hours covered, then finish uncovered at higher heat to caramelize.

For the cheese dip, low-moisture mozzarella is your best option for achieving the stretchy, smooth melt that defines the Korean cheese experience. Shred it yourself rather than buying pre-shredded for a cleaner melt. Heat it gently in a small saucepan or fondue pot with a splash of milk, stirring constantly, until it is completely smooth and fluid. Keep it warm over low heat while you eat.

The eating ritual matters. Use tongs or your fingers to pick up a rib, dip it into the cheese, lift slowly to get the maximum cheese pull, and eat immediately before the cheese sets. Have plenty of napkins ready. The cheese will get everywhere and that is completely acceptable. It is part of the experience and your kids will love every messy second of it.

Serve alongside rice, kimchi, and a light Korean cucumber salad to balance the richness of the cheese and meat. Cold beer or a fizzy drink works well with the richness of the dish. If you want to go further into the theme, add a bowl of tteok on the side for dipping into any remaining cheese after the ribs are finished. Nothing should go to waste when the fondue pot is involved.

Eating Out vs. Making It at Home: Which Is Better?

Both options have real merit, and the choice depends on what you are optimizing for. Eating at a Korean restaurant specializing in cheese dishes gives you the full theatrical experience: the tabletop cooking, the social atmosphere, the professional-quality marinades, and the particular joy of watching the cheese being melted right in front of you by someone who has done it a thousand times and knows exactly when it is ready.

Making it at home gives you control, convenience, and the ability to scale the experience for your family preferences. You can adjust spice levels for kids who do not handle heat well, use the marinade you have perfected over several tries, and turn the whole thing into a family cooking event rather than just a restaurant meal. There is real value in the process of making something together and then sitting down to eat the results.

If you are in the United States and want to experience Korean cheese dishes at a restaurant, Korean BBQ restaurants in major metropolitan areas frequently offer cheese versions of their most popular dishes. Cities with significant Korean communities, like Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, and Atlanta, have restaurants that serve cheese dakgalbi, cheese ribs, and cheese tteokbokki that are as authentic as anything you would find in Seoul. Even smaller cities often have at least one Korean restaurant that has added cheese options to the menu in response to the trend.

Why This Kind of Food Adventure Matters for Families

The cheesy ribs video and the meal behind it were about more than just food. They were about the kind of experience that living overseas creates when you say yes to unfamiliar things. Our family could have spent our time in South Korea eating at the American chains on base and coming home with no particular food stories to tell. Instead, we followed a Facebook tag from Tim, found a restaurant serving food in a way we had never encountered, made a video that made people laugh, and added another thread to the fabric of our Korea story.

Military families who have lived OCONUS know that the food experiences are among the most vivid memories that come home with you. The specific flavor of a dish eaten at a street stall in Seoul, the way the restaurant smelled, who was sitting around the table with you when you tried something for the first time: these are sensory memories that stay sharp long after the details of the move itself have faded.

The cheese dip. The stretchy pull. The laughter when someone made a mess of it. The second and third servings that made the video editing difficult because we kept stopping to eat. That is what we brought home from that meal, along with a very clear recommendation to anyone visiting or stationed in South Korea: find the cheesy ribs, bring the whole family, and do not wear your best shirt.

South Korea gave our family countless meals worth remembering. The cheesy ribs sit near the top of that list, not because they were the most sophisticated or the most traditional, but because they were exactly the right kind of fun. Sometimes the best food adventures are the ones where you show up with no expectations, follow a tip from someone who knows you well, and walk away with a full stomach and a video that makes your friends wish they had been there too.

Our Weekend Road Trip to Alpensia Ski Resort South Korea

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Our Weekend Road Trip to Alpensia Ski Resort South Korea 18

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using any of these links at no extra cost to you. Any information given in this post is based upon our experience and opinions. We are not being paid to promote Alpensia or Holiday Inn. We are simply … Read more

Mr. Pizza and Pizza School

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Mr. Pizza and Pizza School 24

Today we ran some errands got some gas and went out to eat. Nacho pizza? Why not! Poor Lily decided to have noodles which turned out to be spicy, but she was a trooper.

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Mr. Pizza and Pizza School 25

While we were out we decided to have pizza for dinner tonight so we stopped at a pizza place that we have never been to before called Mr. Pizza. All I wanted was pepperoni but it was difficult to find here, and explain. Had to ask them and reiterate that that was all I wanted because some of their selections were:

  • Bulgogi- this is stir-fried meat that has been marinated in a slightly sweet sauce. Now imagine this on your pizza.
  • Bulgogi and shrimp
  • Vegetarian with hash browns
  • A concoction of some sort with bulgogi, shrimp, pineapple and shredded pecans and what looks like mayonnaise
  • Romantic Combo- this one takes a little bit of explaining. During Valentine’s day this place, Mr. Pizza, was offering some of their pies Sweet pizza with pineapples, apples, nuts, raisins or craisins, etc.

If you are the adventurous type and want to try all sorts of different pizza combinations, or do some type of pizza challenge with your friends, then I recommend that you go to the nearest Mr. Pizza in South Korea if you go there. These flavors were a bit too adventurous for us. We wound up just buying a pepperoni

Pizza

One of the pizza places we liked to go to while we were here was Pizza School. I, unfortunately, can’t find any of the pictures I took of this place so I borrowed one from Smileyjkl’s blog. Pizza School is fast, cheap and their pizzas were pretty good. It was also one of my go-to places because this place was close to us.

One thing that we are learning while here in South Korea is that there are very many different restaurants to visit with unique cuisine to try. I am sure that we will get more adventurous the longer we stay here. 🙂

Please like and share. Thank you. Check out Cheesy Ribs

Eating Pizza in South Korea: What to Expect

Pizza has been popular in South Korea since the 1980s, but what Korean pizza chains have done with the concept is almost entirely their own invention. American-style pizza, with its emphasis on tomato sauce, mozzarella, and familiar toppings, exists in Korea but sits alongside a parallel universe of sweet, savory, and deeply experimental pies that reflect local taste preferences and culinary creativity.

For American families living in Korea as part of a military assignment, the local pizza menu is one of the first and most memorable encounters with how different food culture can be even in a category that feels familiar. You walk into a place expecting something like home and walk out with a story about sweet potato mousse drizzled over a bulgogi and shrimp base. The adjustment requires an open mind, but the stories it generates are worth the occasional meal that misses your personal mark.

Mr. Pizza, founded in 1990, became one of the dominant pizza chains in Korea throughout the 1990s and 2000s with a branding strategy built around the slogan, Love for Women. Their menu reflected a deliberate effort to cater to Korean tastes rather than replicate an American model, which is exactly why their topping selections read so differently from what most American customers expect.

A Closer Look at the Mr. Pizza Menu

The toppings we described above, including bulgogi, shrimp, pineapple, shredded pecans, and what appeared to be mayonnaise-based sauce, are not outliers at a place like Mr. Pizza. They represent the standard approach to flavor building in Korean pizza culture. Here is a bit more context on each element.

Bulgogi is marinated beef or pork, typically grilled or stir-fried, with a sweet and savory flavor profile that comes from soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, and Asian pear or apple used as a tenderizer. It is one of the most iconic Korean dishes and appears in many fusion applications across Korean cuisine. On a pizza, it provides a hearty, flavorful base that pairs well with both traditional and unexpected companions.

Sweet potato appears on Korean pizza in forms that range from chunks of roasted sweet potato to sweet potato mousse used as an alternative to tomato sauce. The natural sweetness of the vegetable works surprisingly well against the saltiness of cheese and meat toppings. Sweet potato-based Korean dishes are everywhere, and the pizza application is consistent with how Koreans generally use the ingredient across fast food and casual dining.

Mayonnaise appears on Korean pizza with a frequency that surprises most Western visitors. Korean mayonnaise has a slightly different flavor profile than its American counterpart, with more sweetness and less tartness. It is used as both a sauce base and a drizzle finish on many Korean fast food items including pizza, and once you adjust to the expectation, it makes more sense as a flavor component than it does on first encounter.

The Romantic Combo that we mentioned above, offered around Valentine Day, was exactly what the name suggests: a specialty pizza designed to appeal to couples. It featured a combination of premium toppings presented with an aesthetic flourish that is very much in keeping with Korean food culture, which places high value on presentation and seasonal or occasion-based menu items.

Pizza School: Fast, Cheap, and Surprisingly Good

Pizza School occupies the opposite end of the Korean pizza spectrum from Mr. Pizza. Where Mr. Pizza is a sit-down experience with an elaborate menu of fusion creations, Pizza School is a no-frills carry-out and delivery chain built entirely around affordability and speed. Their menu is straightforward, their portions are generous for the price, and their locations are numerous in residential neighborhoods throughout Korea.

For American military families on a budget, Pizza School became a reliable go-to. A large pizza at Pizza School was available at a fraction of the cost of comparable options from American chains operating in Korea. The quality is not fine dining, but the pizzas are fresh, hot, and comforting in a way that matters on a weeknight when you are tired and just want something familiar. The flavors lean more toward Western palates than the adventurous creations at Mr. Pizza, making it a safer choice for picky eaters and homesick kids.

The location proximity to our neighborhood made it especially convenient. Walking distance pizza at reasonable prices is a quality-of-life win regardless of what country you are in. We returned to Pizza School multiple times throughout our time in Korea, and it earned a permanent spot in our regular rotation alongside the Korean restaurants and food stalls we were gradually learning to love.

Exploring Korean Food Culture as a Military Family

Living overseas with the military is one of the most profound food education experiences a family can have. Every meal is an opportunity to understand a culture from the inside out. Food is not just sustenance in Korea. It is ceremony, community, and identity, and learning to navigate the local food landscape is one of the fastest ways to start feeling connected to a new place.

Korean cuisine as a whole is extraordinarily diverse. From the fermented depth of kimchi to the clean simplicity of doenjang jjigae, from the smoke and char of Korean barbecue to the delicate balance of a well-made bibimbap, the country has a culinary tradition that rivals any in the world. Pizza is just one small corner of it, but it is an accessible entry point for families who are still building their confidence with unfamiliar ingredients and preparation styles.

We learned early on that the best approach to eating in Korea was to say yes as often as possible. Yes to the dish with the unrecognizable ingredient. Yes to the street food vendor with the long line. Yes to the restaurant that had no English menu and required pointing and hoping. Most of the time, the result was something wonderful. Occasionally it was something challenging. Lily and her bowl of unexpectedly spicy noodles would be the first to confirm that not every yes leads to an easy meal. But it always leads to a memory worth keeping.

The kids became adventurous eaters during our time in Korea in ways that simply would not have happened if we had stayed near base and eaten at the same handful of American chain restaurants. Gabe discovered a love for tteokbokki, the chewy rice cakes in spicy sauce that are a staple of Korean street food. The girls developed opinions about different regional styles of Korean barbecue. These are not skills you can teach from a textbook. They come from showing up, sitting down, and eating whatever arrives at the table.

Tips for Ordering Pizza in South Korea

If you are stationed in Korea or planning a visit and want to navigate the local pizza scene with confidence, here are a few practical tips that will make the experience more enjoyable.

Look for the visual menu. Almost every pizza chain in Korea has a large backlit menu board with photographs of each pizza. Even if you cannot read Korean, the photos give you a clear enough picture of what you are ordering to make an informed choice. When in doubt, point at the one that looks least alarming and roll with it.

Learn a few basic Korean phrases. Being able to say the name of a topping or ask for no mayonnaise in Korean will take you surprisingly far. Korean service staff are generally patient and helpful with foreign customers, and making any effort to communicate in Korean is appreciated and often met with encouragement and smiles.

Try at least one fusion pizza before defaulting to pepperoni. The sweet and savory combinations that define Korean pizza are genuinely worth experiencing at least once, even if they end up not being your preference. The bulgogi pizza at most chains is a good starting point because the base flavors are familiar enough to make the overall package approachable for first-timers.

Check for combo meals. Korean pizza chains often bundle pizzas with side dishes like pasta, chicken wings, or potato wedges at significant savings over ordering each item separately. The side dishes are usually quite good and the combo format gives you more variety across the meal, which is especially useful when ordering for a family with different preferences.

Delivery culture in Korea is exceptional. If you are living off-base and want pizza delivered, the process is fast, accurate, and surprisingly inexpensive. Most chains have apps with English-language options that make ordering straightforward even without Korean language skills. Tipping is not customary in Korea, so the price you see is the price you pay.

The Bigger Picture: Food as Adventure

A trip to Mr. Pizza or Pizza School might seem like a small, ordinary thing. But for our family, every meal out in South Korea was part of a larger adventure in learning to live somewhere new. The pizza that had shrimp and pecans on it, the bowl of noodles that turned out to be way too spicy, the carry-out box from Pizza School that we ate sitting on the floor of our apartment because our furniture had not arrived yet: all of it is woven into the story of our time there.

Military families know this experience intimately. Every PCS brings a new set of restaurants to discover, a new local food culture to explore, and a new set of culinary memories to add to the family story. The willingness to try new things, including pizza with mayonnaise drizzle, is part of what makes a life lived across multiple countries and cultures genuinely rich. We are still learning. We are still eating. And we would not have it any other way.

If you ever find yourself near a Mr. Pizza or a Pizza School during a trip to South Korea, stop in. Order something unfamiliar. Bring the kids, let them point at the menu, and embrace whatever shows up. The pepperoni will always be there as a fallback. But the memory of trying something truly different is the one worth chasing.

Dongdaemun ~ What’s for lunch?

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Dongdaemun ~ What's for lunch? 31

Great food is around every corner and alley in Dongdaemun. This country has a plethora of delicious food offerings from 5-star restaurants to street food. My family and I have been living in Korea for almost two years and have not begun to scratch the tip of the iceberg. But, for you our readers and … Read more

Riding a Harley Davidson Through Seoul, South Korea

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Riding a Harley Davidson Through Seoul, South Korea 37

For two years, David commuted through Seoul, South Korea on a 2002 Harley Davidson Sportster 883. Not a scooter. Not a small displacement city bike. A Harley. In one of the most densely populated cities on the planet. This is a collection of those rides — raw footage from the commute, unfiltered Seoul traffic, and the experience of being a motorcyclist in a city of 35.5 million people where the rules of the road are treated more like suggestions.

The Commute That Started It All

This series started as a way to learn video editing and vlogging. David would mount a camera, ride to work or around the city, and then go home and try to figure out how to turn raw footage into something worth watching. The early videos are rough. The editing is basic. But the riding is real, and the city in the background is completely authentic Seoul.

Looking back at these videos now is almost like watching a time capsule. The Seoul you see from the seat of that Harley — the traffic, the expressways, the side roads threading between apartment blocks — is the everyday city that most tourists never see. This is not the polished version from the travel brochures. This is Seoul from 60 miles per hour at rush hour.

What It Is Actually Like to Ride a Motorcycle in Seoul

Seoul is not a motorcycle-friendly city in the way that Ho Chi Minh City or Bangkok is. It is a car city, heavily infrastructure-built around four and six lane roads and an extraordinarily good subway system. Motorcycles in Seoul exist primarily as delivery vehicles — the legion of riders on small scooters who keep the city fed and supplied — and as vehicles for a small community of enthusiasts who ride for the love of it.

Riding a Harley Davidson through Seoul puts you in a very specific category: obviously foreign, obviously riding for enjoyment rather than necessity, and visually conspicuous in a way that a scooter is not. The Harley sound cuts through Seoul traffic in a way that gets attention. People look. Taxi drivers make eye contact at red lights. The bike becomes a conversation starter at every stop, and the HD community in Korea, while small, is genuinely passionate and welcoming.

The traffic itself requires a different mental model than riding in the United States. In the US, road rules are generally followed and other drivers behave in reasonably predictable ways. In Seoul, the rule is: stay alert, expect anything, and never assume that a lane marking or traffic signal means the same thing to the person in the next lane that it means to you. Buses merge without signaling. Taxis stop suddenly in travel lanes to drop passengers. Scooter delivery riders travel in whatever direction is fastest, including against traffic. The chaos is real, and adapting to it is what makes city riding in Seoul genuinely engaging rather than just stressful.

The Bike: A 2002 Harley Davidson Sportster 883

The choice of a Sportster 883 for Seoul city riding turns out to be an excellent one in practice. The 883 is the smallest displacement Harley in the lineup — which in Seoul terms means it is still larger than almost every other motorcycle on the road, but small enough to filter through traffic gaps that a bigger Harley could not navigate. The lower weight compared to touring models makes it more maneuverable in stop-and-go conditions, and the upright seating position gives good visibility over car rooftops in dense traffic.

By the time the 8,000-mile mark hit on the odometer, the bike had accumulated two years of Seoul commute hours on its engine. The Harley Davidson dealer community in Korea is small but well-established, with a dealership in Itaewon — the neighborhood historically associated with the US military presence and foreign expat community — that services American bikes and sells HD merchandise. Harley events and group rides happen regularly, and meeting other HD riders in Seoul was one of the consistent pleasures of commuting by motorcycle in the city.

The Phone Drop at 60 MPH

One of the most memorable moments from two years of Seoul commuting was the phone drop. Traveling at 60 miles per hour on a Seoul expressway, the phone came loose and dropped — and somehow, instead of disappearing under the wheels of following traffic, it wedged between the boot and the frame of the bike. The fact that it did not become road debris at highway speed is the kind of luck that Seoul riders talk about afterward and do not repeat. Phone mounts were upgraded immediately after that incident.

Small incidents like this are part of the texture of extended urban motorcycle commuting. Over two years, the list includes close calls with taxi doors, a memorable wrong-way scooter at an intersection, and more than a few moments of Seoul traffic that made for good video and even better stories. The city is relentless and unforgiving in the way that only true mega-cities are, and learning to ride in it requires a calibration that takes months to develop fully.

Tips for Riding a Motorcycle in South Korea

  • Get an International Driving Permit before you go. You will need one to ride legally in South Korea. The process is simple in the US through AAA.
  • Study Korean traffic law. Korea has specific rules around lane splitting, expressway access for motorcycles, and helmet requirements that differ from US regulations.
  • The HD dealer is in Itaewon. For parts, service, or just meeting other HD riders in Seoul, the Itaewon dealership is the hub of the Harley community in Korea.
  • Expect the unexpected. Situational awareness is the single most important skill for Seoul city riding. Everything moves faster and more unpredictably than you are accustomed to at home.
  • Light traffic windows are early morning. Rush hour in Seoul on a motorcycle is an education; early Saturday morning is a genuine pleasure by comparison.
  • The roads are well-maintained. Despite the traffic intensity, Seoul roads are generally in excellent condition. Potholes and road surface issues are far less common than in comparable US cities.

Why Ride in Seoul at All?

The subway system in Seoul is objectively one of the best in the world. Clean, fast, reliable, inexpensive, and comprehensive in its coverage. Any rational analysis of commute options would put the subway at the top for almost every destination in the city. So why ride?

The answer is the same answer that motorcycle riders give everywhere: because it is the most alive you feel in a city. Seoul from the seat of a Harley is a completely different experience from Seoul through a subway window. You are in it rather than moving through it. The heat in summer, the cold in winter, the smell of food from restaurants on side streets, the sound of the city at speed — none of that comes through glass and climate control. Riding a motorcycle in Seoul is uncomfortable, demanding, occasionally terrifying, and completely irreplaceable as an urban experience. David would do it again without hesitation.

Looking Back at the Footage

These videos were made when David was first learning to film and edit. The quality evolved significantly over two years, but the value of the early footage is not in the production quality — it is in the authenticity of what it captured. Seoul shot from a moving Harley at street level is a document of a specific time and place that becomes more interesting with distance. The city changes fast. Some roads and intersections in these videos look different today. The neighborhoods shift. The skyline adds new towers every few years.

For anyone who has lived in Seoul, these videos will be immediately recognizable and probably nostalgic. For anyone who has never been to Seoul, they offer a view of the city that almost no travel content captures: the unglamorous, high-speed, real daily texture of life in the biggest metropolitan area in South Korea. That is what the Harley commute gave back, above and beyond the ride itself.

Riding as a Servicemember in South Korea

David was stationed near Seoul as a US military servicemember during this period, and the experience of motorcycling as an active duty service person in a foreign country comes with its own specific set of considerations. The military has guidelines and in some cases restrictions on personal vehicle use off-base, and motorcycles occupy a particular category in those guidelines. Before purchasing the Harley and beginning the Seoul commute, David went through the proper safety course and registration process required for military personnel operating personal motorcycles overseas. This is worth noting for any servicemember reading this who is thinking about bringing or buying a motorcycle in Korea: do your paperwork, take the course, and make sure your chain of command is aware. The rules exist for good reasons and the consequences of not following them are significant.

Beyond the administrative side, riding as a US servicemember in Seoul gives you a particular vantage point on the city. The areas around US military installations sit at the intersection of Korean urban life and American military culture, and navigating that geography on a motorcycle — from the gates of the base out into the flow of Seoul traffic — is a daily demonstration of how differently the two cultures approach the road and everything around it. The commute was never routine. Two years in, it was still interesting every single day.

Gear and What to Wear Riding in Seoul

Korean summers are hot and humid in a way that makes full gear feel genuinely brutal in July and August. The temptation to ride without a jacket in 35-degree Celsius heat with 80 percent humidity is real and understandable. The correct answer, as always, is to wear the gear anyway. Mesh riding jackets designed for hot weather exist specifically for this situation and make the experience significantly more bearable without compromising protection. Full-face helmets are required by Korean law, so that decision is made for you.

Korean winters are correspondingly cold and can be icy. Seoul sits at a latitude similar to New York City and gets genuine winter weather with temperatures regularly dropping below freezing. Riding through a Seoul winter requires serious cold-weather gear: heated gloves or hand guards, a thermal underlayer, and a windproof outer shell. The winter riding footage in this series captures a side of Seoul that most people only experience from inside heated cars and subway cars, and watching it in hindsight gives a good sense of just how committed the commute-by-Harley decision really was.

The Harley Davidson Community in South Korea

The HD Owners Group (HOG) chapter in Seoul is active and welcomes both Korean and foreign members. Organized rides happen regularly on weekends, taking routes out of the city into the surrounding countryside where the roads open up and the Harley sound system can actually be appreciated without immediately being absorbed by the traffic noise of a 10 million-person city. If you are in Seoul with a motorcycle and want to connect with other riders, the HOG chapter is the fastest way to do it. Events are listed on social media and at the Itaewon dealership bulletin board.

Korean motorcycle culture more broadly has been growing steadily as incomes have risen and disposable spending on recreational vehicles has expanded. The HD brand in particular carries significant aspirational status in Korea — partly for the same reasons it does in the US, and partly because of the long association between Harley Davidson and the American military presence in the country. When David rode past on the Sportster, the reaction from Korean riders at stop lights was consistently positive. The bike was recognized, appreciated, and occasionally photographed by strangers at intersections. It was, in that sense, the perfect ambassador for showing up in Seoul as an American who loves motorcycles.

If you are a motorcycle rider who finds yourself stationed in or moving to South Korea, the two-word answer to whether you should ride in Seoul is: absolutely yes. The city will push your riding skills further in six months than most US riders develop in years of open-road riding. The density, the unpredictability, and the sheer concentration of variables on a Seoul road at rush hour create a riding environment that is demanding in the best possible way. The footage does not fully capture it. The only way to fully understand it is to ride it yourself.

4 Days in Jeju, South Korea: Our Complete Family Guide

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | 4 Days in Jeju, South Korea: Our Complete Family Guide 43
This entry is part 1 of 4 in the series Jeju

Ever since we moved to South Korea, one destination kept coming up: Jeju Island. Known as the Island of the Gods, Jeju sits about 80 kilometers off the southern tip of the Korean peninsula and packs beaches, volcanic geology, UNESCO World Heritage caves, waterfalls, and theme parks into one compact island. When a long holiday … Read more

A Day at Ocean Adventure, Philippines

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | A Day at Ocean Adventure, Philippines 49

Dolphin!!!! We had planned to do so many things during this trip like exploring the Hundred Islands, make a trip to Baguio, Ocean Adventure, and go to the beach for a day or two while enjoying some of my uncle’s cooking. Uncle is an amazing cook and one of my all-time favorites especially when it … Read more

Hiking Mount Rainier National Park with Kids: Our Family Day on the Trails

Surviving Adventures - Family, Career, & Adventure | Hiking Mount Rainier National Park with Kids: Our Family Day on the Trails 55

How I tricked my family to hike Mt. Rainier I have always wanted to go to Mount Rainier as a child but never had a chance until we moved to Port Orchard, Washington. So one day we did. It was a couple of hours’ drive but well worth it. Lily was only 4 years old … Read more